Deal Builder & Review
Deal Builder: cash, finance or lease — with an honest review
This is the worksheet a Car Dog would build for you. Put in the vehicle and VIN, pick your credit tier, choose cash, finance or lease, and add every protection product the dealership put in front of you. When it matches their paperwork, press Review my deal and you'll get a verdict, the padded line items named, which protections are actually worth keeping for your car, and the exact questions to ask.
How are you paying?
The vehicle
The more you give us, the sharper the read. The VIN lets a Car Dog check the exact build, options and history if you send the worksheet over.
New inventory is current and next model year.
Pick a make and we'll list its trims.
Pick "New — 0 miles" for a new vehicle.
Optional. It's on the dash or the driver's door jamb, and it removes all doubt about which car this deal is for.
Pick a make and we'll list its factory colors.
Tax is charged where you register, not where the dealer sits.
Your credit and your situation
None of this is stored. It is what lets us tell you which add-ons fit your life and which ones are being sold to you.
Picking a tier only suggests a rate — change it to whatever you were actually quoted.
Optional. Lets us tell you if the payment is a stretch.
Cash cushion and risk
This is what decides whether a service contract is protection or just margin.
Loan and equity shape
How exposed you are on the loan itself.
Driving and where it's parked
Tire, wheel, glass and dent products only make sense against real exposure.
Coverage you already have
So we can tell you what you'd be buying twice.
The numbers
Enter the numbers exactly as the dealer wrote them. We only use what you type — nothing is assumed or filled in for you.
California charges by value: about $502 on this price (registration $74, CHP $32, title $23, transportation fee $129, license fee $208, tire and district fees). Estimate only — trucks, vans and other commercial-plated vehicles pay a CVRA weight fee on top of this, so registration can run higher.
California caps this at $85, so it is one of the few lines that truly is not negotiable. An electronic filing fee around $33 is common on top of it.
Use your 10-day payoff from the lender.
Most finance contracts are written 45 days out. Those extra days of interest are spread into the payment.
Protection products & add-ons
Check anything the dealer put on your worksheet and enter their price. Every one of these is optional and negotiable, and most can be cancelled later for a prorated refund.
The notes below come from your own answers in the credit section and the factory coverage still on the vehicle.
Pays for covered mechanical repairs after the factory warranty ends, minus your deductible.
- Worth it when:
- Turbocharged, European, or complex hybrid drivetrains, high-mileage used cars, and anyone who cannot absorb a surprise $3,000 repair.
- Watch for:
- Exclusionary coverage is better than a stated-component list. Confirm the administrator, the deductible, whether it is transferable and refundable, and that any licensed shop can perform the work.
- Typical asking price:
- $1,800 – $4,000. Optional and negotiable. Not required to buy this vehicle or to qualify for financing.
If the vehicle is totaled or stolen, GAP pays the difference between what insurance settles and what you still owe.
- Worth it when:
- Little or no money down, a term over 60 months, negative equity rolled in, or a model that depreciates quickly.
- Watch for:
- Your own insurer or credit union usually sells the same coverage for $300 or less. Confirm it covers your full deficiency including rolled-in negative equity.
- Typical asking price:
- $400 – $1,200. Optional and negotiable. Not required to buy this vehicle or to qualify for financing.
Fits your situation: With little down and no cushion for a shortfall, GAP is worth carrying.
Prepays scheduled oil changes, filters, and inspections at the dealer.
- Worth it when:
- Only when the price is less than what those same visits cost à la carte over the time you will keep the car.
- Watch for:
- Add up the covered visits at menu price first. Many plans expire on time as well as mileage, so low-mileage drivers lose visits they paid for.
- Typical asking price:
- $600 – $1,800. Optional and negotiable. Not required to buy this vehicle or to qualify for financing.
Repairs or replaces tires and wheels damaged by road hazards — potholes, nails, debris.
- Worth it when:
- Low-profile tires on 19-inch or larger wheels, and daily miles on the 15, 210 or 395 where debris is constant.
- Watch for:
- Check the per-claim and lifetime caps, whether it covers cosmetic curb rash, and whether it duplicates a tire road-hazard warranty you already get with the tires.
- Typical asking price:
- $700 – $1,800. Optional and negotiable. Not required to buy this vehicle or to qualify for financing.
Replaces and programs lost or damaged smart keys, often with lockout help.
- Worth it when:
- Vehicles whose keys cost $400 or more to replace, and households that lose keys.
- Watch for:
- Some credit cards and roadside programs already cover lockouts. Compare the plan cost to the price of one dealer key.
- Typical asking price:
- $300 – $800. Optional and negotiable. Not required to buy this vehicle or to qualify for financing.
A sealant and stain treatment plus a warranty covering specific paint and upholstery damage.
- Worth it when:
- Rarely. Kids and pets make the interior half of it the only defensible part.
- Watch for:
- This is one of the highest-margin items on the menu, and modern clear coats do not need it. The warranty usually excludes normal fading and wear.
- Typical asking price:
- $600 – $1,800. Optional and negotiable. Not required to buy this vehicle or to qualify for financing.
Paintless dent repair for door dings and small hail damage.
- Worth it when:
- Lease returns and anyone parking in shared lots daily.
- Watch for:
- Size limits are strict, and creased or repainted panels are excluded. Confirm how many repairs per year are allowed.
- Typical asking price:
- $400 – $1,200. Optional and negotiable. Not required to buy this vehicle or to qualify for financing.
Repairs chips and replaces cracked glass, often with no deductible.
- Worth it when:
- Vehicles with camera-based driver assistance, where a replacement plus recalibration can run over $1,500.
- Watch for:
- Your comprehensive insurance may already cover glass with a small deductible. Confirm recalibration is included.
- Typical asking price:
- $300 – $900. Optional and negotiable. Not required to buy this vehicle or to qualify for financing.
Etching or a tracking device, usually bundled with a benefit payment if the vehicle is stolen and not recovered.
- Worth it when:
- High-theft models in high-theft ZIP codes, and only at a modest price.
- Watch for:
- Never accept it as a pre-installed, non-negotiable line on the worksheet. Etch itself costs the dealer very little.
- Typical asking price:
- $200 – $1,000. Optional and negotiable. Not required to buy this vehicle or to qualify for financing.
Probably decline: Etch and decal packages are almost pure margin. Decline unless the payout benefit genuinely stands on its own.
Window tint, ceramic coating, or clear paint protection film installed by the dealer.
- Worth it when:
- Tint is genuinely useful in the Inland Empire and High Desert heat — the question is only price.
- Watch for:
- Price it against a good local tint or detail shop first. Dealer packages commonly run two to three times the independent price.
- Typical asking price:
- $400 – $2,500. Optional and negotiable. Not required to buy this vehicle or to qualify for financing.
Pays the loan, or the payments, if you die or become disabled during the finance term.
- Worth it when:
- Almost never as sold here. Term life and real disability coverage cost less and are not tied to one car loan.
- Watch for:
- It is optional by law, no matter how it is presented. Check the exclusions and the waiting period before you consider it.
- Typical asking price:
- $400 – $1,500. Optional and negotiable. Not required to buy this vehicle or to qualify for financing.
Probably decline: Almost always the worst value on the menu. Term life or disability coverage elsewhere costs a fraction of this.
Where this deal lands
You left some lines blank, so we used typical numbers for them: sales tax 8.75%, DMV registration & title $502, doc fee $85, term 60 months, APR 9.00%. Type the dealer's figures over them for an exact read.
Anything else we should know?
What the dealer said, what's on the worksheet that isn't above, what you're worried about.
The honest opinion
When the worksheet above matches what the dealer handed you, have a Car Dog read it. You'll get a verdict, what's fair, what's padded, which protections to keep, and the exact questions to ask.
Why the F&I office is where deals go sideways
Most people negotiate the car and then relax. The finance office is where the margin lives: the rate can be marked up over the lender's buy rate, and a menu of protection products appears with prices that are entirely negotiable and rarely presented that way.
- Every product on the menu is optional by law, no matter how it is presented.
- Prices are negotiable, and most products are cancellable later for a prorated refund.
- Rolling products into the loan means you pay finance charges on them too — this calculator shows you exactly how much.
What the credit tier dropdown does
Picking a tier fills the rate field with a typical starting point for that band so you have something to compare the dealer's quote against. It is an estimate, not an offer, and the field stays fully editable — put in whatever you were actually quoted.
If the quoted rate sits well above the range for your tier, that gap is usually dealer markup. Ask to see the buy rate, and bring a credit union preapproval so you have leverage.
How to use the review
- Build the deal from the dealer's worksheet, not from memory. Numbers you guess at produce advice you can't use.
- Add the protection products at their asking price, not at what you hope to pay.
- Run it once before you sign anything, and again if they restructure the deal.
- Send the worksheet to a real Car Dog if anything in the review surprises you.
What this is not
It is an estimate and an opinion, not a quote, an appraisal, or a credit decision. Rates depend on the lender and your full credit file, fees vary within the limits California sets, and product pricing varies by dealer.
The short version
Negotiate the out-the-door price, get your own rate quote, and treat every protection product as an optional, negotiable line item. Then check the whole thing before you sign.
Common questions
- Do I have to buy the protection products the dealer offers?
- No. Extended service contracts, GAP, tire and wheel, paint protection and credit insurance are all optional. A lender can require full coverage insurance, but never a dealer add-on. If someone says a product is required for the rate or the approval, ask for that in writing.
- Should I roll the add-ons into my loan?
- Only if you have compared the cost. Financing $3,000 of products at 8% over 72 months costs you roughly $780 in extra interest on top of the $3,000. Paying up front, buying GAP from your own insurer, or declining outright is usually cheaper.
- Can I cancel a service contract or GAP after I sign?
- Usually yes, and often for a prorated refund based on time and miles used. Read the cancellation clause in the contract, submit the request in writing, and confirm the refund is applied to your loan principal.
- Why does the review ask for my VIN?
- So there is no doubt which vehicle the numbers belong to. The VIN pins down the exact build, trim and options, which matters when a Car Dog checks whether the price and residual are reasonable. It is optional.
What's next?
- 1Compare this against the dealer's written worksheet
- 2Check what your current car is worth
- 3Run the full deal, add-ons included
- 4Have a Car Dog read it before you sign
Want a real Car Dog to take a look?
If you'd like another set of eyes, a real Car Dog can review this with you. Free, and an introduction is only ever your choice.
Talk to a Car DogFree, no pressure
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Estimates only. Your actual rate, taxes and fees depend on your credit, lender and where the vehicle is registered. Car Dogs is not a lender or a dealership.
